Flying Home

I'm booked on the Patriot Express flight today via Ramstein to Baltimore.  As you remember, my car is it McGuire.  The last part of this adventure is going to be making my way up there. I'll see how I feel when I get back stateside if I'm going to New Jersey or back to Arlington.

The Last Days

Had a nice visit back with Claudio and Paola in Vicenza Monday evening. We shared some good red wines, olives, and cheeses over conversations of culture and life. Paola cooked an excellent vegetarian dinner including a cauliflower souffle that was yummy.

Tuesday, while Paola was at work, Claudio drove us to Padova, a university city about 45 minutes east. It is famous for having the largest public square in Italy. The old inner city and pedeatrian shopping area was constructed with arcades, typical of cities in the Venetian empire.  It was a cloudy day, so the pictures aren't so great.

We went back to Vicenza to pick up Paola and drove to Bassolo de Grappa, about 45 minutes north east into in the foothills. Unfortunately we arrived after sunset, which is getting early here, so I didn't get the best sense of the city. The town is famous for its grappa and medieval wood bridge.  From there I took the train back to Aviano and to the base.  Tomorrow I start the process of trying to get back home.

Good News and Almost Good News

I got up early Monday morning at 6:00, checked out of the lodging, and caught the base shuttle bus for the several mile ride to a sattelite base where the medical facilities are located. The good news was that I was accepted to be seen and was in a dental chair within an hour.  The amost good news was that only a temporary repair could be made and I will need a new crown.  

By early afternoon I found myself on a train back to Vicenza. Claudio and Paola wanted me to come visit one more time.  Never wanting to arrive empty handed, I stopped at the commissary beforehand to pick up some American products like real maple syrup and peanut butter. Discussing the tooth situation, they suggested that I go to Croatia to get the work done, where they have had some dental work done that they are pleased with, and is very inexpensive relative to Italy and probably the US.  I might have considered it if I was staying here for a lot longer but this trip is winding down and I hope to fly back to the states Wednesday.

The weather has been great. It has been sunny everyday since my arrival in Italy with daytime high temperatures in the mid sixties. It does cool down quickly once the sun goes down and you need a sweater and jacket.  Today, my  hopefully last full day in Italy, it is supposed to rain.  We are taking a little road trip to see the town Padua, then stopping a the Diesel Jeans factory outlet enroute to Paola's sister for dinner.  I'll take the train and bus back to Aviano, check back into the lodging, get a good night's sleep, and get up at 5:30 to be ready to get to the terminal for check in for the flight.

The picture of me is in front of one of the oldest houses in Vicenza.

Slight Change Of Course

After the great day in Venice, I thought about a Sun/Mon overnight trip to Trieste or Lubijana.  That changed when I awoke to find a tooth crown had come loose and was barely hanging on. The dental clinic on base was closed until Monday. Just in case I could not get seen there, I was also on the phone with my insurance to get a network referral.  Wanting to get this taken care of first thing Monday morning made me recalibrate.  I set out to see some local nearby towns on the bus routes.

The most interesting was Maniago, a town famous for it's cutlery, but also nice being situated at the base of the mountain range. I wandered around, lingered over a porcini mushroom  lunch, and enjoyed people watching. The Small towns are all similar; the people know each other and enjoy a coffee or a wine or a cigarette together. There's lots of smoking here though expensive. On the other hand, wine is very cheap. I've enjoyed many a glass of decent house red wine for about $2.  Many towns have such narrow old streets that are one way, or no way, for cars.  Mail is delivered thru a fleet of motorcycles. At a cafe or restaurant one should not ne completely surprised by a hole in the floor, if you know what I mean!

Venice 33 Years Later

Saturday was the perfect day to return to Venice after 33 years. The weather was sunny and warm. I planned a day trip to wander around, rediscover, have dinner and get the last train-bus back.  Well, expect the unexpected sometimes.  On the train I happened to sit with expats John (American ) and Ian (Brit), colleagues who were also going to Venice for the day.  They invited me to join them, and I readily accepted. Turned out to be a great decision.  Both these guys had been several times and knew their way around. I learned that Ian is from Walls End, named by the wall that once marked the furthest reach if the Roman Empire in England.   Who knew there was such a place!  The conversations made the trip go by and soon we were crossing the rail causeway from the mainland to the island of Venice, which offered beautiful views of the lagoons and the islands.  The sculling teams were out in abundance, as were the fisherman. 

The first thing after arriving at the Santa Lucia station was to catch a water taxi to the island of Murano, home of the famous glass.  Before sightseeing there was the business part of the trip...John was really there to buy a chandelier for his wife.  I found the artistry of the glass in the many many many shops amazing, but didn't buy any.  We sat in the sun for a pasta lunch, with wine of course, before taking another water taxi direct to the famous San Marco Square.  This was the same approach to Venice I made from Lido in 1981 and I could recall the feeling. We then spent the rest of the day and into the evening wandering around Venice and passing by the famous sights I vaguely remember before a great dinner and the trip back.  Having those guys leading the way was really helpful.  Venice ia truly amazing and I was just as impressed now as I remember being impressed then.   I got back to Aviano around midnight and crashed!

Friday in Pordenone

My new friends Vicenza suggested that I do not rent a car and drive around the Adriatic. They said that that area is only interesting in the summer if you want to go to the beaches. Otherwise the towns are not very interesting.  So on Friday I visited two of the local towns near Aviano. The most interesting was Pordenone with its small palace and Basilica and lots of winding cobblestone alleyways with shops,cafes, and restaurants. The three pictures are from Pordenone. Had great eggplant parmesan at a restaurant there. Friday was a pretty low key day which was okay because I knew I wanted to spend the day in Venice on Saturday.

An Adventurous Day

Started with a walking tour of Vicenza's central park, not quite as grand as New York's, but notable for its residents: wild rabbits, chickens, beavers, geese, and ducks, all living harmoniously and free. The park was once a private estate.  We then went to the uppercrusty hills on the south side boasting amazing views, estates, and a gorgeous basilica. We then drove further south to the vineyards, as this is a big Cabernet region that reminded me a lot of Tuscany and the trip I made there with my friend Frank in 1997.  Had a great lunch at a restaurant that had excellent food and a million dollar view.  For some reason I forgot to take a picture of the view.  The lunch was a regional specialty, made from reconstituted salted dried cod.  It was amazingly delicious, as was the house Cab! 

Made my way back to Aviano by train and bus, which was an adventure unto itself.   At Treviso, where I changed trains, there is a pizza kiosk with the most amazing pizza I've ever had. Yesterday's pizza going there was grilled vegetables with anchovies. Tonight was chopped tomatoes and different cheeses. In trying to navigate the local bus service from Pordenone I didn't count on the bus stop being at a gate that closes at night :(.  I had to walk about a mile to the main gate...good exercise.

Claudio and Paola were great hosts and want me to come back before I leave.  That "leaving" is likely to be next Wednesday the 5th.

Saluti da Vicenza, la citta del Palladio

Greetings From Aviano

The flight last night was pretty short and uneventful. You knew it wasn't United because, when the captain made his announcements, he talked about being honored and privileged to transport military personnel. I was immediately impressed with this air base....they really have a first class operation. There were lots of folks in the terminal to answer questions and be helpful. There was a bus that took those of us staying at the Mountain View Inn, the appropriately named on base hotel. My room was a two bedroom apartment with full kitchen! Of course it was dark when I landed, but as you see in the first picture, the view when I woke up this morning was breathtaking. There is a club across from the Inn, so I went over to check it out.  They have a great selection of German and Italian beers on tap.  Spoke with some of the folks at the bar and got some ideas for what to do this week.

This morning I checked out of my room as I'm headed by train to Vicenza. I'm being hosted by an Italian family that are friends of friends of mine in Germany. They almost insisted that I come visit.  I stopped at the package store on base and bought a very good bottle of California Cabernet as a gift... not that they don't have good wines here, but I just don't know them as well. I'm coming back to Aviano tomorrow night. This next week is going to be a lot more adventurous than the last! Friday I'm going to rent a car and drive along the Adriatic coast.

And it is a good day to fly

Getting on this flight out of Ramstein was very easy. There were less than 20 passengers competing for the 73 seats.  You can see my name on the picture of the standby list. After checking in, I had time to go to the new shopping mall on base. It's Just like any other small American mall. They have Chili's restaurant and Romano's Macaroni Grill and Starbucks, a food court, and about 30 small shops from local and German national chains selling duty free.  The mall is anchored by a huge PX the size of a Target store.  Things have really changed over the years.

The charter is operated by Atlas Air, a Boeing 767.  The last pictures you see are of the terminal from the inside and outside.  More from Italy tomorrow.

Today Looks Like A Good Day To Fly

Not sure where all the flights are going, but one thing for sure, they haven't been going from Ramstein to Sicily, Spain or Greece. On the bright side there's a flight this afternoon from Ramstein to Aviano, Italy with projected 200 space available seats. This flight would be a continuation of one coming from Baltimore that stops at Ramstein, and then goes on to Aviano, Italy and Incirlik, Turkey. It is a Boeing 747 or 767 so the accommodation should be pretty nice. I feel pretty confident I'm going to be on that flight.

I've made a reservation at the Mountain View Lodge on the air base for the first two nights until I get my bearings and decide where I want to go beyond the immediate area. There are many choices, including Venice and Triest in Italy. Aviano is also very close to Slovenia. I'm sure there must be hundreds of charming small towns and villages along the Adriatic coastline.  I'm told that the capital of Slovenia, Ljubljana, is very beautiful and it's only a two and a half hour drive. I think this will be my only adventure outside of Germany as I plan to start trying to make my way home middle of next week. The other Mediterranean destinations will have to wait for the next trip and I'm okay with that.

I've been swimming a few times here in Kaiserslautern. The pool is beautiful and I don't know how they treat the water but it feels like swimming in a freshwater lake. 

Three Countries in One Day

After a quick trip down to the Saturday morning market in Kaiserslautern to pick up some fresh fruits and vegetables we drove about an hour northwest to Mettlach, a village that lies near the point where Germany borders Luxembourg and France. It features factory outlets in the old downtown that specialize in housewares, most notably Villeroy & Boch. I didn't buy anything but if I was living in Germany I would have been tempted. After lunch we drove to Metz, France via Luxembourg along a picturesque stretch of the Mosel and Saar rivers.

I think the last time I stepped foot in Metz France was probably 1979 And I took a train from Metz to London to visit my brother Robert when he was studying abroad so I really don't remember it, and it was like visiting a new city for the first time.  While less than 40 miles from the German border Metz is very French in its architecture and appearance. We wandered around the markets , the downtown pedestrian shopping district, and the main cathedral that features some windows by designed by Chagall.  Metz does not have a subway or street car system, but it operates buses that look like street cars and have two points of articulation so they are the longest buses I've ever seen.  When in France one should have duck for dinner, so I did. I will be leaving Germany on Tuesday by either bus or plane to Aviano Italy.

DST Ends in Europe Tomorrow

So my loyal readers, I bet you're wondering if I am writing this from Germany or Italy. It's Germany. I decided after all to not spend 12 hours riding a bus. My friends also convinced me to stay and join them for a fall road trip this weekend and have dinner tomorrow night in Metz, France.  Besides, had the opportunity for a wonderful Greek dinner tonight.

As for the Mediterranean, that bus trip might just be in my future.  I read online that people who have taken this bus trip think it's a wonderful drive through the Alps and it was a great trip. That's good to know because I don't see any flights through Monday, so I will probably be on that bus Tuesday. 

As this has also been a culinary adventure I attach two pictures. The first is the lamb shank dinner I had tonight. The second one is for all of you pork lovers.... a selection of German classics. Quit salivating :-)

"From Frankfurt With Love"

Heading back to Kaiserslautern by train after a short and nice overnight visit to Frankfurt. Spent the evening with Frank, in town for business, and our friend Silke. We dined well, of course, and sat and spoke for hours, as is typical here. There is no pressure to give up your table. I had spinach dumplings with a chanterele mushroom creme sauce. The restaurant was across from a restored depot that has been transformed into an upscale wine bar where we started the evening.

Now I hope to soon be on my way south to the Mediterranean. Timing is right...it suddenly has gotten cold in Germany. Unfortunately there are no flights tomorrow or Saturday and I don't yet know about Sunday. There is a free bus I can take that leaves tomorrow morning to Aviano, Italy. Its a regular civilian charter bus the Army contracts to move passengers between those military bases. For me it is space available just like the flights. It just might be a decent option to get south of the Alps. It's near Venice, and it might be easier to continue on from there.  Stay tuned.

It Was To Be A Rainy Tuesday

According to the 11 o'clock news last night it was to be a terrible rainy cold day today. But, because I was in Stuttgart, things changed, and as you can see in the picture below it was a great day for wandering around, meeting friends for lunch, and sitting outside for coffee and onion pie later in the day. Onion pie you wonder...it is a seasonal specialty of this area.  It is something akin to quiche, and is made either with or without bacon. 

Roast Venison. Um Um Good.

With fried bread dumplings, warm creamed savoy cabbage, and baked pear with ligonberry.

Monday in Stuttgart

Well its more less a normal October day in Stuttgart with cloudy skies and temperatures around 55 to 60 degrees. Spent the morning walking around the city and visited the new city library. I have to say it was very sterile and white as you can see from the picture.  I had my favorite pretzel rolls for breakfast along with some great cheeses and meats. Tonight we're going to one of my favorite Swabian restaurants for dinner and I'm having their specialty of the week...roast venison.

Last night on the drive to Stuttgart from Kaiserslautern we saw the most amazing sunset. I also saw something unexpected on the Autobahn... people texting while driving. Its crazy enough people do this  in the states, but on the Autobahn while driving 80 to 100 miles per hour, it's insane.

I've managed to get in touch with most of my friends here and will try to see many of them either for lunch or dinner or coffee before I leave for Frankfurt on Wednesday.

The Flight Over and 1st Day in Kaiserslautern

Before I get into the flight over, it is a beautiful day in Kaiserslautern, sunny and in the mid 70s. Couldn't ask for better.  I'm happy to finally be here after five attempts at three different terminals.

The flight over was quick, just 7.5 hours.  It was smooth as silk, I guess to be expected from such a large plane.  I had a hard time falling asleep, and only slept about 3 hours.  Maybe it was the coldness in the upper cabin, maybe the noise, or maybe the lack of wine.  While the cabin is heated, it is not completely isolated from the cargo area, and the cold air from below makes its way in.  I wore my hoodie, and earplugs and had a wool blanket provide by the Air Force.  The food service was a box lunch (see picture) consisting of ham and cheese sandwich, can of soda, bag of chips, Oreo cookies, and granola bar, for which I paid $4.65 at check in.  Off came the ham, and in memory of my dad, I made a potato chip and cheese sandwich with mayo...one of his guilty pleasures and I gave away the rest.  Next time I'll bring my own meal as many others did....another lesson learned.  After landing we were bused to the terminal where the USO had a coffee service so we could warm up and wake up waiting for our bags to arrive.  That was a very nice touch and I have to remember to send the USO a donation.  My friends picked me up and we went shopping at the Commissary for dinner.  I stayed awake until 10 last night, then got caught up on my sleep.  Went to the market square (see picture) this morning, had fresh herring, my favorite on a crusty roll with onion.

Tomorrow I'm headed down to Stuttgart for a few days.  My friend Klaus will pick me up on this way home from Frankfurt (necessary because the German railway operators are on strike), then on Wednesday I'll take the train to Frankfurt to visit friends there, then back here on Thursday when I hope to get a Space A flight to one or two of my four Mediterranean destinations.